Gunung Kawi and Tirtha Empul (Bali)

We're getting to know everyone who lives in the area near us and Mr. Chu, a 76-year old Chinese man who had lived in the United States for thirty years, invited us and our neighbours to dinner one evening. He strongly suggested we don't miss the archeological site of Gunung Kawi. We are thankful for that, besides for the opportunity to get to know him better.

Gunung Kawi was a day trip north from Ubud to a town called Tampaksiring. Despite its size Ubud has only one traffic light. We pulled off as it turned red to take a photo of this beautiful statue.

It was pretty straightforward to get to Tampaksiring and once there a large sign directed us to the site. (Straightforward and signs are atypical Bali.) It was immediately apparent why not many tourists visit it; the streets are very narrow and there is absolutely no way a tour bus could get anywhere close enough to the entrance, even a car would have trouble. We love our scooter!

It has been concluded that Gunung Kawi is the shrine of King Udayana and his two sons, dating back to the eleventh-century. There are two temples separated by a river. Both have inscriptions that show the larger temple was for King Udayana and the smaller for two of his sons, Marakata and Wungsu. These sons also became Balinese kings, succeeding each other upon death. Here I am on the bridge over the Pakerisan River with King Udayana's temple behind me.

This is the close-up view. King Udayana has been enshrined in this temple -

And his sons have been enshrined in this temple across the river. It's a jungle here and must take a lot of upkeep. It was peaceful walking around and we only saw a few other people.

Gunung Kawi is also a centre of spiritual and religious training. However, at the present time there is some construction going on and we didn't see anyone who appeared to be in training.

This lizard slowed down when he realized we weren't going to chase him.

Enormous Jack fruit growing wild. We'll have to try this some time.

Tirtha Empul was a short ride away from Gunung Kawi but it was a different experience altogether. A large parking lot accommodated tour buses and cars and we were directed through a gamut of craft stalls to get to the exit. It was still lovely to see the beauty of the old temple and we didn't exactly have to battle crowds. A lot of tourists as well as Balinese nationals make the pilgrimage to give offerings and ask for blessings under the flow of pure water which bubbles up from an underground spring. The water is considered holy.

Here is the pool where people immerse themselves while still clothed, also wearing a sarong and sash. The ritual is to stop at each fountain, make an offering, request a blessing and receive it by immersing oneself under the flowing water.

This young girl had obviously been here before. Offerings are small baskets made from palm fronds and filled with flowers and grains of rice. An incense stick seems to be an optional extra. 

This Balinese family was clearly happy to be making the journey. The wife holds incense sticks and the offerings, one for each fountain, are in the bag. We wondered about the significance of the baby's head being shaven and discovered another Balinese ritual. They're shaved at the ages of 6-months and 1-year old, the reason being simply to encourage a thick head of hair as they grow up.

The sacred gates leading to the source of the pure water.

The pool at the source of the pure spring water. We could see it bubbling up from the side closest to the temple building. It appeared to be a high volume underground spring.

Temple detail, beautiful artistry.

On our way home we felt impelled to stop for these rice paddies just on the eastern outskirts of Ubud. The thing that makes them different from any others we've seen are the numerous mini temples dotting each paddy. It was a gorgeous day!

After eight days in Ubud we're heading out to explore more of Bali. Mr. Chu has kindly agreed to let us stash our biggest backpack at his house so we can travel extra light. We've rented the scooter for another week and playing it by ear with no accommodation booked. We're aiming to see Sideman, Amed, the north coast and Lake Bratan before returning to Ubud for one last night.

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

A quiet rice paddy walk in central Ubud! (Bali)

This was a surprising find - a quiet walk in the middle of bustling noisy crowded Ubud. We actually found it the very first day we explored, thanks to directions from a fellow South African whom we randomly bumped into on the busy street. Known as the rice paddy walk, I'm so glad we had the time to go back for lunch and this time bring the camera. It's such a contrast from the really busy main street; amazing to think it's only a minute away ... on foot!

Smaller pathways lead off to lovely houses; we believe they are mostly holiday accommodation rentals. The storm cloud above this one is typical of Bali weather during the rainy season. Sun and rain within minutes of each other but in this case we never even saw the rain!

This particular house was one of our favourites.

Along the walk are a few artisan craft shops, spas, restaurants and coffee shops.

We had a nice lunch with our neighbour friends at an organic restaurant amidst the rice paddies.

And this white tented roof restaurant is our excuse to find the time to go back once more!

Talking about food reminds me to mention that one of that best meals we've had comes from a street hawker. He's conveniently located a few minutes down the road from our studio but that isn't the reason we've been back twice. We love the flavour of the sauce he uses on the grilled chicken, we love his personality and we love the careful way his wife packages up all the trimmings in separate bags. Here's our dinner on the grill.

And back at home we have a yummy meal to dig into! Total price? IDR35,000 (about US$3).

Along with a relaxing beer purchased earlier from the supermarket to wash it all down!

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

Moon Temple and Yeh Pulu (Bali)

Just on the outskirts of Ubud are two lesser-known and therefore uncrowded, hidden treasures. The first of these, the Pura Penataran Sasih or Moon Temple, is known for housing one of the most important Bronze-Age antiques in Indonesia, an ancient ornate bronze kettle drum allegedly 2,300-years old. Highly valued, considered sacred, it is the largest in Southeast Asia. It's kept high above the ground but I gave my best attempt at a photo.

It was most peaceful walking around the temple complex all by ourselves and it was quite a treat to see Dennis in a sarong! This is the first of many more occasions.

When entering a temple it's necessary for ones shoulders and legs to be covered and to wear a sash around the waist. Every temple seems to have a supply of sarongs and sashes that can be borrowed for a small donation. The sarong Dennis is wearing was supplied by our airbnb host and I have my own lovely lightweight sarong that is versatile and perfect for traveling!

Oops, Dennis is showing some leg -

The second hidden treasure is the Yeh Pulu fourteenth-century rock-cut carvings. They have been chipped away from a cliff face amid rice fields. The story of the carvings is uncertain but are in great condition for their age. Once again, at least on this particular day, we were the only ones who cared to visit. We took our time to examine the reliefs.

Yes, they were literally next to rice fields -

Dennis receives a blessing and sprinkle of holy water. It was my turn next.

Again, it was so peaceful here by ourselves.

Depicting a successful wild boar hunt -

Interestingly, this made us realize we have not yet seen a horse in Bali - only statues of horses.

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

Indulgences and more in Ubud! (Bali)

With as many spas and salons offering all sorts of massages at really great rates it wasn't long before we started taking note of various recommendations. Our neighbours told us about a truly unique experience. The Boreh Pijat Salon & Sauna is owned by a traditional Balinese healer named Ketut Jaya. The signature treatment incorporates a 1-hour plus healing massage, a herbal scrub called Boreh, a herbal tonic and the use of a sauna for a full body work up and detoxification.

Our afternoon appointment was perfect. Ketut worked on Dennis, a Balinese woman on me. Side by side, we lay on a covered bamboo mat platform that was open to the garden. The treatments take place in the family compound; background noises included roosters crowing, children playing and other family members chatting and going about their business. This is typical of an authentic tradition and only served to increase our enjoyment of the whole experience.

After two and a half hours of being utterly pampered we felt so relaxed we just wanted to have a nap! What a fabulous time for only IDR326,000 (about US$27) and yes, that was for BOTH of us!

Later on, feeling refreshed we were ready to see what central Ubud was like at night. Up to this point we'd resisted riding the scooter after dark other than Dennis making short solo trips to buy dinner. The first noticeable difference was the reduction in traffic. We made it all the way down the main street without having to stop and wait even once. We parked the bike and within a few minutes had spontaneously decided to seize the moment and watch a traditional Balinese dance show. The stage was open-air outside a temple, a rich lustrous backdrop.

The accompanying music ensemble, perhaps forty women, played mostly percussion-type instruments that created a pleasant sound totally unfamiliar to our ears. I can't really say that we could tell the difference between one piece of music and the next but the talented dancers were exceptionally good in hitting the key notes with their gestures, head and eye-jerking movements. It was amazing to watch, especially as all the seats were close to the stage.

After the show we found a quiet garden restaurant down a small street and had a wonderful meal to cap our wonderful day. It was surprising that, upon leaving the restaurant around 10pm, the streets were almost deserted. We know Ubud is considered the cultural capital of Bali but we had assumed with as many tourists as there are in town, there would also be a nightlife scene.

The following evening we saw a completely different show after a scrumptious Indonesian dinner, served tapas-style on banana leaves. This is one of the tastiest meals we've had in Ubud and we're hoping there'll be time to eat there again, perhaps after the next massage we're promising ourselves. The restaurant, 'biah biah' was on a small street and looked across at a family temple. Dennis, who has been keeping track of beer prices, noted that this was the cheapest large 660ml Bintang at a restaurant so far - IDR28,000 (about US$2.30).

The dance show was called the Kecuk Dance and took place inside a temple, covered but open on three sides. The show features a large group of men wearing checkered sarongs and chanting "ka-chuk, ka-chuk, ka-chuk ..." over and over and over with a few variants and nuances. The sound of so many male voices in unison has a sonorous timbre that reaches ones inner depths. They went non-stop for 40-minutes and soon after started on the next piece. It was incredible.

The story behind the dance is the battle between Sugriwa, the King of the Monkeys and his brother Subali over the goddess Tara. It is derived from the sacred Hindu Ramayana text. The dance troupe members imitate our primate ancestors and either sit or scurry around crouched down on their hands and feet, chanting all the while. Their shoulders move up and down in time with the chant and the resemblance to a troupe of monkeys is uncanny.

The finale to the show was a crazy fire dance. To the background chant an animated male dancer went into a trance and walked over the hot coals of coconut husks. Not just once but several times, kicking them this way and that and not seeming to feel anything. When at last the coals were only glowing faintly, he dropped down and lay still until being revived with holy water and a blessing. The show lasted just over an hour and we had been thoroughly entertained. Once again our seats were up close and personal, only a few feet behind the chanting men. Great show!

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

A Drive in the Countryside (Bali)

With our confidence growing in our abilities on the scooter we wanted to take a longer trip. We looked at the map, chose a road and off we went! Bali is such an incredible visual feast; we blasted through the appetizer, lingered over the main course and ended our day with a sweet dessert! Can you tell we're also being spoiled with tasty food ... the next meal is never far from our minds! Ubud itself is very busy and we looked forward to getting out of town. Our appetizer began with the outskirts of Ubud, artisan workshops lining the street - this is the place to come to furnish a home. Beautiful works of art as practical pieces of furniture. But still dodging heavy traffic we whizzed on by.

After about an hour it was time for a butt break - we're still getting used to sitting on a motorbike for long periods at a time. Spotting a little restaurant we pulled off and walked down a few stairs. The rice terrace view opened up before us and we were completely enthralled. Pinch me, are we really here? We enjoyed a relaxing drink and then decided to see a little more on foot.

With every step we took the view just got better and better. There were a few craft stalls selling colourful blankets, quilts and sarongs, amongst many other things.

The lush green rice terraces of Ceking -

A short while later we spied the perfect table for lunch -

- that cost less than US$10 but the view was priceless!

This friendly worker kindly posed for a photo -

Back on the scooter and further inland we went. The temperature dropped as we gained in altitude but it was still very pleasant. We passed through several small little towns and came across this Hindu wedding ceremony about to begin. Not only were we invited to watch the ceremony, we were also invited to join in the celebrations taking place over the next two days!

The actual ceremony took place outside the temple and on the main road through town.

It started to rain soon thereafter.

And at the end of the ceremony it stopped raining. Good blessings on the marriage?

Onward and upward ... I whispered in Dennis's ear, "Oh, that place looks interesting - it has free testing coffee"! (I'm quoting verbatim.) It was a coffee plantation whose specialty is Luwak coffee, considered by some to be the finest coffee in the world! We were assigned a personal guide to give us a tour that ended in a tasting. The luwak is a small nocturnal animal, like a civet or possibly a possum. It eats the arabica coffee beans but doesn't digest them; hence they come out whole on the other end. These droppings are collected and processed, the arabica beans now containing additional enzymes that alter the taste of the coffee, making it smoother and richer. We would have to say we agree!

  

This gorgeous flower, growing everywhere on the plantation is from the ginger plant. The Balinese use the stem of the plant, rather than the root, for flavouring their food and teas.

Heading home -

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60